Upgrading a car’s sound system can be a very rewarding
experience. Improving a car’s system should make music listening experience
much more enjoyable and it may translate to making a long, boring commute more
enjoyable as well. Although sound systems can get very complicated, there are
some basic upgrade paths that can make a significant difference, and to
understand them, it’s best to understand the three main frequency groups of
music (these are my interpretations, not technical interpretations)
·
Highs: the higher frequencies should make music
sound crisp and clear.
·
Mids: the mid frequencies should make music
sound alive and with dimension
·
Bass: the lower frequencies, or bass, should
give a “punch” to music.
Once you understand the main components of music, choosing
which equipment to buy becomes a little simpler. Which brings us to our first
step:
1.
Choosing your equipment.
a.
Full range speakers: this is the easiest, and
possible cheapest upgrade path to obtaining better sound. Choose a full range
speaker to cover mostly every frequency. This is pretty straight forward, since
most full range speakers are designed to work with most stereos. The budget for this should range between $100 to $150 dollars assuming your car has four speakers total. Anything below this price range might not be a worthwhile upgrade, and anything above might be difficult to notice for the average listener.
b.
Specialized speakers: this is costlier, but has tweeters for highs, woofers for mids, and a subwoofer for bass.
Choosing mids and highs is a little more straight forward since it is mostly
sold as a component set, which comes with a tweeter, a mid-range speaker, and
an adapter that will plug into a standard stereo connection. From experience,
the average user will prefer a system with about 50 watts RMS per pair of
speakers. This should range between $150 to $200 dollars. This set of speakers can also be ran without a subwoofer, but these commonly lack any bass, so either running them with a subwoofer, or in combination with full range speakers is recommended.
c. Choosing bass can get more complicated, but for simplicity’s sake, it is
choosing a monoblock amplifier and subwoofer. There are two
things that should match when buying a bass combo: RMS watts and impedance. For
example, a subwoofer will be rated for 200 watts at 4 ohms. An amplifier might
have 3 different capabilities, 200 watts at 4 ohms, 400 watts at 2 ohms, and
800 watts at 1 ohm. Since the amplifier has one of its 3 modes matching the
subwoofer, then they are compatible. The amplifier can also exceed the
subwoofer in watts RMS, but it should not exceed more than 50 watts for a
system with less than 500 watts, or 100 watts for anything greater. From
experience, the average user prefers a system with 300 watts RMS per subwoofer.
For an amplifier, an amplifier installation kit is also required. For a
subwoofer, a subwoofer box is required. This should range between $200 and $300 dollars. This includes installation budget as well. Many deals may also be found which includes a subwoofer, a matching amplifier, a matching box, and an installation kit. Usually anything exceeding $300 changes many installation aspects and makes the installation no longer basic.
2.
Installing equipment
a.
Full range speakers are pretty straight forward.
i.
Locate stock speakers, remove with the proper
tool (usually a cross-screwdriver)
ii.
Disconnect old speaker
iii.
Connect new speaker
v.
Repeat steps i-iv for remaining speakers.
vi.
Play music through stereo and ensure all
speakers are functioning correctly
b.
Component systems:
i.
Locate stock speakers
ii.
Remove with proper tool
iii.
Disconnect old speaker
iv.
Attach
adapter to stock wiring
v.
Connect
mid-range speaker to adapter
viii.
Connect Tweeter to adapter
ix.
Repeat steps i-viii for rest of speakers
x.
Play music through stereo and make sure speakers
are functioning correctly
c.
Subwoofer-Amplifier combo (amplifier
installation kit required):
i.
Locate car battery
ii.
Disconnect car battery
iii.
Run power wire (included in kit) from battery to
amplifier location (usually trunk).
(Shows how a power wire might be neatly run with stock wiring)
(Shows how a power wire might be neatly run with stock wiring)
iv.
Mount amplifier in desired location (usually in
the back of rear seats)
v.
Connect power wire to amplifier (power wire must
be disconnected from battery)
(this is showing power, ground, and remote connected)
(this is showing power, ground, and remote connected)
vi.
Run a separate ground wire (included in kit) from
amplifier to chassis of car and connect to amplifier, then attach other end to
chassis.
(ground wire connected to chassis on this picture, and amplifier on previous picture)
(ground wire connected to chassis on this picture, and amplifier on previous picture)
vii.
Locate stereo, obtain access rear of stereo
(removal might be required)
viii.
Run RCA’s (included in kit) from stereo to amplifier
and connect on both ends (adapter might be required for stereo)
1.
Rear of stereo will have a dedicated subwoofer
RCA connection for after-market stereos, which RCA’s should be connected to for
this set-up
(Stereo has r/sw output for rcas. sw stands for subwoofer, r stands for rear, which is not discussed in this tutorial)
(Stereo has r/sw output for rcas. sw stands for subwoofer, r stands for rear, which is not discussed in this tutorial)
2.
Rear of stereo will need a wire adapter for
stock stereos
3.
Amplifier will have input RCA connections, and
sometimes output. If it contains both, connect to input.
(rcas are connected to input, and controls are adjusted to desired settings)
(rcas are connected to input, and controls are adjusted to desired settings)
ix.
Run remote
wire (included in kit) from stereo to amplifier and connect both ends. This wire is blue and connects to the stereo harness
(harness pictured, but blue wire is not visible unfortunately)
(harness pictured, but blue wire is not visible unfortunately)
xi.
Connect subwoofer box to amplifier
xii.
Check power wire for fuse (if no fuse is
present, install fuse)
xiii.
Confirm that all wires, except for power wire at
the battery end are connected
xiv.
Connect power wire to battery
xv.
Power on car stereo and check that amplifier
turns on only when stereo turns on
xvi.
Turn music to desired listening level
xvii.
Adjust amplifier dials “gain” and “bass boost”
to desired level(pictured in step 3)
xviii.
Turn “sub sonic” switch off and “phase switch”
to 0.
xix.
Adjust dial “LPF” or “low pass filter”:
1.
If stereo has dedicated sub-woofer RCA
connections to highest frequency
2.
If stereo does not have dedicated sub-woofer RCA
connections to lowest frequency
3.
Listening for first two weeks (recommended but
not required)
a.
For full-range speakers or Component speakers,
no necessary action is recommended.
b.
For subwoofers, a two-week period of very low
volume is recommended for the “break-in” period. This is because subwoofers are
very stiff when new, but require a lot of movement to produce lower frequencies.
Having the level too high too early in the “break-in” period can tear the
subwoofer and ruin it.
Since I don't know own a car yet, I can really used this information in the future. All the information provided help me learn how to install a sound system and it sounds so easy to do. Explaining how there's three main frequency groups of music to choose from, sounds interesting. And by explaining step by step on how to install a sound system is helpful for the reader to understand it and apply it. I can’t really think of anything you can add to your blog, but I would like to see some pictures of some of the tools used in installing a sound system. The overall blog is straightforward and clear. I really enjoy reading this blog because it introduces a lot of information a person might not know or might know already.
ReplyDeleteI appreciate the knowledge that was presented here. It is dense with information and merits multiple readings.
ReplyDeleteI highly question the use of roman numerals here; they are not very attractive and add a level of complication to an already complicated process. In fact, the overall formatting is an eyesore. Ouch! My eyes!